Monday, November 21, 2011

Signs of Water Problems

Whether you have a leaky basement, wet crawl space or a damp basement understanding and identifying the signs of water problems is key to having your problems solved by a waterproofing contractor. From wall cracks, slab floor cracks and block wall ruptures water infiltration causes high humidity and poor indoor air quality not only in your basement or crawl space but throughout your home.

Efflorescence is a wall discoloration caused by water vapor passing through your walls leaving alkaline particles that stain your wall. These stains are signs that you have either hydrostatic pressure on the outside of your foundation walls or the wall and footing is sitting in a pool of water and wicking the water up the wall. Either way the only solution is waterproofing and water diversion to remove the water that is surrounding your foundation.

Subsurface water can also make its way under your foundation causing concrete slabs to heave and crack allowing water to enter the living space. Sealed interior drain systems in conjunction with sealed sump pump systems can relieve this water pressure and divert the water away from your foundation. If left unchecked major structural problems can occur, requiring foundation repairs performed by specialists.

Check your basement or crawl space for the following:

Basement
• Walls leaning in or out
• Bowed walls
• Cracks in the poured or block walls
• Water leakage through cracks at base of walls
• Cracked floors
• waterproofing
• Water stains on floors and walls

Drainage around your home

A variety of drainage products and techniques are available to waterproofing contractors and grounds managers. The basics of surface drainage should be learned from the golf course industry. Golf course grounds managers understand the principles of water control and water management better than most anyone. Understanding these principles will help you complete your drainage project efficiently and professionally and will aid you when installing any kind of drainage system.

Poor drainage causes obvious problems: standing water, foul odor, insects, diseased or dying plants, mud, ruined turf and basement water. Planning and installing suitable drainage will solve these problems and prevent the site from turning into a maintenance nightmare during storms and rainy seasons.

The first step you should take when planning a drainage system is to control hard surface runoff and then identify low spots in the landscape. If obvious low spots exist on the property, the water must have a way to exit those areas. If you don't install drainage, a puddle probably will develop whenever it rains.

During a one-inch rain, 1,250 gallons of water fall on the roof of a 2,000-square-foot house. Without proper grading, gutters, and downspouts, some of this water flows into your basement. To waterproof your foundation you must first manage the source of the water. Rain and rain runoff is often the source of wet basements and foundation repairs. Collecting and controlling surface rain water also can save you money on watering landscape plantings and save you time when mowing or trimming your yard.

To prevent water from leaking through your basement, look to gutters as your first line of defense. While gutters with downspout systems protect your house from rainwater and snowmelt, they can also compound surface drainage problems by concentrating runoff near its foundation. This water must be moved at least 10’ away from the foundation to prevent wet basement or foundation repairs. Downspouts can be directed into a catch basin and or drain pipe system.

Water should be carried through a solid drainpipe to a drywell, daylight or to a pop up emitter. Years ago, drywells were old 55-gallon oil drums with holes punched in them. From the start, these were doomed to fail as they rusted and collapsed. Today's recycled plastic drywells are easy to handle and work efficiently on many drainage problems.

 

The same type of system should be used for sump pump outlets. A sump pump installation is never complete until the water is directed away from the foundation so that it will not have to be pumped out of your basement again. The sump pump discharge line should be drained to a 3” or 4” solid line that is buried, and then either run to daylight or to a pop-up emitter. It is very important for this discharge line to empty to a larger pipe as soon as possible, so as to not create back pressure on the sump pump.

Making sure the ground closest to your foundation is graded away from the home is also very important. When regarding this area be sure to use a clayey soil instead of mulch or other loose material. Water wicks directly down through mulch opposed to running off away from your basement.  Clear away sod and plantings, then you can gently build up the soil to slope away from the foundation. The 10 feet of ground closest to the house should slope at least six inches downward to keep water from seeping into the basement or flooding landscaping.

For problems with consistently wet areas, drywells and catch basins can also be used. Buried drywells give this collecting water a place to go and can even be used with a drain pipe system to move the water to dryer areas.

Swales
Swales are designed to slow and capture runoff by spreading it horizontally across the landscape, facilitating runoff and absorption into the soil. This type of swale is created by digging a ditch on contour and piling the dirt on the downhill side of the ditch to create a berm. In dry climates, vegetation along the swale can benefit from the concentration of runoff. While swales can be very useful, they can also be unattractive or cause mowing issues.

Surface drainage is the single most important application of foundation waterproofing. Unless you have an underground spring or an unusually high water table, the surface drainage portion of your waterproofing system needs to control the greatest amount of water.

French Drains
 A French drain, drain tile or perimeter drain is depression covered with gravel that redirects surface and ground water away from a wet area. A French drain usually has drain pipes along the bottom to quickly move water that seeps down through the upper layer of gravel or rock. French drains are common drainage systems, primarily used to prevent ground and surface water from penetrating or damaging building foundations. The French drain technique may be used to distribute water, such as that which flows from behind retaining walls to relieve ground water pressure.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Crack Injection

Before concrete crack injection products or solutions can be determined the following factors should be taken into account:

The width and depth of the crack
Whether the crack is dormant or active
Whether or not appearance is a factor
Whether or not you need to seal against pressure

Concrete cracking is a frequent cause of complaints from homeowners. Cracking can be the result of one or a combination of factors such as shrinkage, thermal contraction, settlement or applied pressures. Cracks can be unsightly and a source of water intrusion. This is where finding the source or cause of the cracking comes into play.

Cracks that occur before concrete is fully hardened are due to shrinkage caused by the loss of water in the concrete mix. This is known as plastic shrinkage cracking.

Settlement cracks generally develop around embeds or around openings. It is not uncommon to first see a crack at the corner of a door or window or even near a beam pocket. Settlement cracks generally result from insufficient consolidation, dry mixes or lack of adequate concrete coverage over reinforcing steel.

Structural cracks in residential foundations usually result from settlement or horizontal loading or pressures. These types of cracks are much more prevalent in block basement walls. Generally hydrostatic pressure from water in the soil is the culprit. As more and more water builds the soil starts moving downward and outward. This outward movement applies great pressure on the wall eventually causing cracks.

Diagonal wall cracks that extend nearly the height of the wall are often a good indication of settlement. If structural cracks are suspected you should contact a professional engineer immediately.

Dormant or Active

Basement wall cracks that are determined to be no longer increasing are referred to as dormant cracks. Traditionally these cracks have been patched with cement grout or mortar. While this can be effective until water build up occurs or any unexpected movement occurs.
Active cracks, those judged to be still moving, require a sealant to be flexible if it is to be effective. Actively moving cracks need to be addressed carefully and completely.
Crack Injection

Fine cracks may be sealed by injecting them with either a polyurethane grout or an epoxy resin. In recent years, epoxy resins have become the favored material, on dormant cracks, for this purpose and formulations are available which will penetrate cracks as fine as 0.1 mm in width, or less.

Epoxy grouts are widely used because:

They adhere strongly to both fresh and hardened concrete;
Formulations are available which will adhere to most surfaces and harden even under wet conditions
They have good mechanical strength and low shrinkage
They are resistant to a wide range of chemicals, including alkali’s
Epoxy grouts are normally injected under pressure. Nipples or injection points are fixed along the line of the crack and the surface is then sealed, on both sides of the cracked element. The epoxy is then injected under pressure, using specialized equipment. Once the epoxy hardens the repaired section often becomes stronger than original, hence the term concrete welding.

Wider cracks, i.e. those 1 mm or more in width, may also be sealed by injecting epoxy resin, particularly cracks on vertical surfaces. On horizontal surfaces it may be possible to simply pour the poly grout into the crack.

Other materials, such as polyurethane resins, have also been used satisfactorily to seal fine wall cracks. They can have lower viscosities than epoxies and, hence, can penetrate more easily. However, they generally do not achieve the same bond strengths.

Live cracks must be sealed with a flexible material, polyurethane, which can accommodate the movement in the crack. This is especially so when cyclic movements are anticipated. Flexible epoxy resins are available which will accommodate a small amount of movement but the more usual procedure is to choose a polyurethane, that remains flexible with wall movements.

As the technology of basement wall crack injection has grown the costs to perform this solution has decreased. Today’s crack injection professionals have very specialized equipment and specialized training which allows them to very quickly identify the best repair procedure and perform the injection at relatively low cost. There is no reason to wait any longer, the cracks will not fix themselves.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Battery Backup Sump Pumps

No AC sump pump will work when the power is out. Battery backup pumps provide protection against water when your power goes out. Many times during the worst spring storms power can be lost, which normally will shut down your sump pump system. In these cases a battery backup sump pump will automatically turn on and provide protection to your basement until power is restored. For those of us that have experienced basement flooding a battery backup is not a luxury but an absolute necessity.

Why use a battery backup sump pump?

There are many things that can go wrong down in the sump pit to cause basement flooding. It can be a power outage, a failed sump pump, a stuck float switch or a sump pump that cannot keep up with the inflow of water. By using a battery backup sump pump your basement will remain dry during any of these occurrences.

Most backup systems fail because the battery is dead and you don't know it. Quality systems are the ones that monitor the battery, power conditions and sump pump, then sound an alarm when maintenance is needed.

What does the quality system monitor?
Primary Pump Failure
Battery power
Battery fluid levels
Power conditions

For added protection and peace of mind, install a battery backup sump pump system. The WaterPro Series backup sump pumps have unique monitoring system that sound an alarm when maintenance is needed, or when a problem arises. After all, a backup sump pump system with a dead battery, loose cables, or a clogged pump is like having no backup at all. The WaterPro Series backup sump pumps monitor all these functions and remind the homeowner when attention is needed.

As with AC sump pumps, DC battery backup units vary in performance and features. Once again gallons per hour and efficiency are the keys to picking the best system. If the system is not efficient, it will drain the battery quickly and put your basement at risk. Also, if your backup cannot keep up with the amount of water entering your sump basin, your basement will be at risk.

To make a battery backup work most efficiently it should be combined with a matching high capacity primary sump pump and an efficient sump pump basin. Sump basins or sump pits, can greatly affect the performance and efficiency of a sump pump system. Basins with large capacities around the sump inlet are best suited to take advantage of modern backup sump pumps. The best of these new sump basins will have a sealed, child-proof lid to protect your family and restrict noise.


Backup sump pumps protect against:
Power outages
Primary pump failures
Float switch failures
Excessive inflow of water

The best backup sump pumps offer:

Automatic operation and charging
Monitoring of battery and pump conditions
Monitoring of the battery fluid level
Dual float switches
Reliability

For more information, contact Waterpro basement waterproofing today!

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Air Ventilation Steps To Help Protect Against Leaky Basements

By: Tom Leiss


An average family of four creates between two and four gallons of moisture per day through cooking, cleaning, showering, and breathing. Some of this moisture finds its way to the cooler, drier surfaces.

If the attic is not properly vented, the moisture can condense as water or frost inside the attic when it hits the cooler attic surfaces. As a result, mold, wood rot, and poor air quality can form. These are all problems that ultimately cost the homeowner in terms of money and health as well.

Installing a proper venitilation system is a measure that will stave off this condition and pay for itself, helping to keep your family healthy and your property valuable.

Home ventilation is a system of components. It is more than just blowing air through the home. It involves a process that yeilds steady, high volume movement. It provides the right amount of both intake and exhaust. A properly vented system includes vents at the peak of the roof and a good deal of airflow from the soffits. Always balance the attic ventilation system with 50% of the required air high on the roof for exhaust and 50% of the required ventilation low on the roof for intake. This allows the system to be balanced in terms of cool dry air entering and moist air exiting.

A home that retains excess moisture will develop problems such as wood rot, basement mold, basement seepage and poor air quality in basements and crawlspaces. It is important to retain an experienced basement waterproofing contractor to fix these issues.Waterproofing Contractor Lake County.Thomas Leiss is a home and basement waterproofing expert. He founded and runs WaterPro Basement Waterproofing of Lake County Illinois ==>http://www.waterprobasement.com

Window Well Corrective Steps to Avoid Basement Leaking Problems

Author: Tom Leiss


Basement window leakage is caused by either a leaking window well or a missing window well. A window well is an outside retainer that holds dirt and water away from thew window. In both cases water builds up to the bottom of the window sill and pours under the sill or through the window. Window wells can be corrected by filling voids and stabilizing the soil under the ground and around the window well. They can also be corrected by installing window well drains.

Once a window well has become a problem, the result is water entering the structure. A whole basement can be flooded. Even with minimum leakage in a basement, the foundation can be weakened and the wood floor joists and wall joists can become moldy. Drywall acts as a powerful sponge and readily soaks up water. Drywall becomes very moldy and when this occurs, it must be replaced. Of course any material in the basement such as furniture and personal property are often ruined as well. It is obvious that a basement leakage can bring an enormous cost to the homeowner.

Window wells can be corrected at a comparatively low cost. It is necessary and highly adviseable to secure the services of a liscensed basement waterproofing contractor. He will design and implement the necessary corrective action to mitigate leaking window wells. Typical job completion depends on the number of window wells to be corrected. As a general rule of thumb, 8 windows would require a day. But considering the consequences of water in your basement, having a day or less depending on your number of windows is well worth your attention.

The process of securing a basement waterproofing contractor begins with securing an estimate which can usually be accomplished with a phone call. Also be certain to contact only experienced contractors whose work can be verified.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Here are Important Information Steps to Crawl Space, Foundations and Basement Waterproofing

* You need to Determine whether your water problem is an interior problem or exterior problem .The most Common type of moisture problems within your home's interior areas are high settings on humidifiers, unvented clothes dryers, showering in the bathroom with out proper venting, and the same problem can happen in the kitchen area when cooking.  Make sure all area's with in the home are properly ventilated.

* Check all inbound water lines for any tpye of leaks,if any leaks are found then a licensed plumber may be required for the needed for repairs. These type of problems are rarely the cause.But just to be sure! Keep a close eye on it. Because you may have other ongoing hidden or unaware of type issues as well.

* If these moisture problems still continues to exist within the your home, we suggest that your next step would be to contact a top quality local professional waterproofing contractor like WaterPro to locate and repair the problem immeaditly.The work that is needed to waterproof your home correctly is rarely a do-it-yourself type of project.  A top quality professional waterproofing contractor like WaterPro will be needed to properly diagnose the problem for you and offer a proper repair solution for your home.

* Now check around the exterior of your home to make sure that the soil has been properly graded around the foundation of your home to be positively sure you have proper drainage of all surface water around your foundation. If water doesn't seem to be draining away your home properly,You may need to have some re-grading and/or surface drainage installed to correct the drainage problem.

* Make sure to check your roof to see that all water run-off including gutters and downspouts, are properly draining away from your home. It’s best to have the downspout outlets drain the water at least minimum of 6’-10’  away from your homes foundation.

* Also, make sure to look at all the exterior areas around your foundation and verify that it has at the least amount a ¼” or more of fall per linear foot for proper water drainage away from your home. If your concrete foundation is sinking or falling inward on your home, then the concrete will need to be taken out and replaced. Plus the water drainage will need to be re-routed away from your homes foundation.Re-routing excess water can be done by proper sloping of the surface soil away from the foundation, or channel drains can be installed at proper locations for proper drainage to a desired location away from your home.

* Basements and crawl spaces also need an exterior drainage system next to the foundation footings. This type of system needs to be a minimum Diam. of 4” corrugated or 4” perforated type pipe that has been backfilled with clean gravel and wrapped in a filter type fabric that has been approved for this type of application. Exterior drainage pipe should be placed to run to an open surface area for proper drainage away from foundation if possible, if that not possible then the pipe should be run to a sump pit that can be installed on the interior or exterior of home and the water should then be pumped away from your homes foundation.

* Determine the proper size of sump pump that will be needed to be installed.  The correct sizing of your sump pump is very critical, if a pump is too small it may not keep up with the large amount of water coming into it,most likely it will run constantly, and get over worked and burn out. A pump that is too big is also bad, although it will keep up with the volume of water, it will pump water so fast that the pump will also ‘short cycle’ decreasing its life,which will cause it to fail and die out.  Choosing the correct sump basin is also important, this also helps in sizing up a sump pump.

* If an exterior drainage system is not an option,then you will need some type of an interior drainage or under-slab drainage type system that can be installed and drained to a sump pit and then pumped away from the homes foundation.  These type of systems are designed to ‘control’ excess water away from the homes foundation area, not to prevent water build-up or penetration into the foundation, but sometimes its your only option, depending on your exsisting conditions in and around your homes foundation.

* Water problems are usually the most common or main cause for structural damage that require foundation repairs, if the cracks are wider than a hair-line fracture, you may need to verify the foundations stability.  This might require a professional structual foundation engineer.Please remember this is not a do -it your self type of work, it reqiures a pro.

* Once you have a drainage system set in place, and foundations water under control,You need to have all cracks in  your homes foundation walls and floors to be sealed by a pro such as WaterPro.  This process is done with epoxy or polyurethane injection.

More basement waterproofing information below:
http://www.waterprobasement.com/

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Crawlspace Encapsulation

Traditional dirt crawl spaces are full of moisture that enters via evaporation and diffusion through the soil and sidewalls. An important part of a crawl space moisture control strategy is the installation of a vapor barrier and encapsulation. A vapor barrier provides the crawl space with a moisture and soil gas protection layer that decreases the amount of moisture and radon present in the crawl space. Crawlspace encapsulation is the process of isolating the crawlspace from the ground and outside air with vapor barriers, vent sealing and the conditioning of the air in the crawl space.

Crawl space encapsulation is a relatively new technology used to treat chronic humidity, mold and unhealthy conditions in crawl spaces. The process completely isolates the crawl space from the ground and outside air by lining the structure with a high-performance vapor barrier, specifically designed for this purpose and installing either a dehumidifier or a crawl space conditioning system.

The objective is to include the crawl space area as a part of the internal envelope of the building. Many homes built on crawl space foundations in the United States suffer from poor moisture management. The current trend of striving for a healthy home is damaged by crawl space moisture. Some of the common symptoms of a crawl space moisture problem are:

• Mold or moisture damage in the crawl space
• Musty odors in the living area
• Condensation on air conditioning ductwork or equipment
• Condensation on insulation, water pipes
• Buckled hardwood floors
• High humidity in the living area
• Insect infestations
• Rot in wooden framing
These symptoms are most often noticed in the humid spring and summer seasons but can occur at any time of the year. Often, the heating and air conditioning contractor is the first person the residents call to deal with the problem. Typically though, the problem is not due to a failure of the air conditioning system; it results from poor moisture control in the crawl space and can be solved by waterproofing contractors.

The best vapor barriers have excellent physical characteristics, including high puncture resistance, high tensile strength and low water permeability. They will prevent ground moisture from entering the crawl space when installed on the walls and across the soil, greatly reducing the negative effects of a moisture laden crawlspace.
Contact a waterproofing contractor today to make your crawl space drier and improve your indoor air quality.

If your walls are damp and stained placing a basement wall waterproofing system over the wall will not only make the stone, block our poured walls look better but will act as a vapor barrier shielding the living space from water vapor transmission.

A low permeability vapor barrier in conjunction with a sealed interior drain system protects the basement against moisture. This moisture can cause mold, mildew, fungus, odors and poor indoor air quality. Sealing your basements walls not only makes your basement look better but it protects the health of your family.

Basement Finishing

If you are getting ready to finish all or part of your basement a basement wall vapor barrier system will protect your investment from moisture and moisture related problems. There will be no more mold and fungus growing on the drywall, no more effervescence stains on the walls and no longer will you have high humidity levels in your new living space. By maintaining lower humidity levels your new wood work will be shielded from excessive expansion by your new low permeability vapor barrier.

Finishing your basement adds valuable living space to your home and can become the new meeting place for friends and family. But, if your newly finished basement has water leaks or floods, this new beautiful space becomes a nightmare. Protecting your self from this nightmare is as easy as contacting a waterproofing professional.

Thermal Vapor Barriers

Thermal vapor barriers are a foil faced vapor barrier that has double layers of bubbles and true white poly wall vapor barrier on the back. The reflective foil face can reflect up to 90% of the indoor heat back into the basement living space. You are now able to save energy and protect against moisture, mold, mildew and potential water leaks all with one product. A professionally installed thermal vapor barrier system is the perfect option if you are going to finish your basement and are concerned about energy usage.

Once again, the thermal vapor barrier, when used in conjunction with an interior drain system will protect your investment while increasing your indoor air quality. If you are tired of ugly and wet basement walls vapor barrier systems can be the answer to new interior living space.

Sump Pump Pits

 A sump pump system is designed to remove water from around and under your foundation. One of the often overlooked but key ingredients to a quality sump pump system is the basin or pit liner. The design of the sump pit will greatly affect the efficiency and effectiveness of the sump pump system. No longer do you have to settle for a glorified trash can in your basement floor. Quality sump pits are available through quality waterproofing contractors throughout the US.



The first thing you need to look at is the shape. The unique bell shape of the pit above left, allows for a greater amount of water to gather at the inlet of the sump pump. This design causes the sump pump to run less often and more efficiently. Your sump pump will run less often and allow more water to be removed when it is turned on, effectively increasing the life of your sump pump system. Remember, your sump basin needs to be large enough to easily add an extra sump pump or battery backup sump pump. If the basin is not wide enough at the base there will not be enough room for water to collect because of too much equipment being placed in the bottom of the pit.
Following the shape, you will see that some sump basins will have perforated holes around the perimeter and some will not. Depending on the design of the whole system will dictate whether or not perforations are needed. In many clay soils the perforations will help remove water from under the slab. In sandy soils perforations can cause clogging of the sump pump system.

Sealed Sump Lid

The next feature to look for is an airtight, moisture proof lid. The lid or cover is a very important piece to a quality sump basin or waterproofing system. There are several reasons to cover your pit with a lid. First, for safety concerns. With children and pets around you want to keep the sump pit covered to prevent someone or something from falling in the pit. Next, an airtight lid will prevent moisture from migrating throughout the living space. The main purpose of a sump basin is to remove water from the home, so keeping the water in the sump pump basin by using a sump pit lid is necessary. One feature of some sump basin lids is the ability to see through them. Clear, sump pit lids allow you to see into the sump pit and make sure that everything is operating properly. These lids will have a gasket seal surrounding the perimeter which helps fight against noise and prevents moisture from entering the living space while allowing you to observe its functions.

Sump basins are not all built alike. Take your time and evaluate the basin before you decide which type to install. Many of us have “builders grade”, glorified trash cans installed in our homes. If you have basement water problems one of the first upgrades that should be made is the sump basin or pit. A quality basin along with a battery backup sump pump can go a long way towards fixing basement water issues.

French Drain

French drains are a time proven system for eliminating excess water. The earliest forms of French Drains were simple ditches, pitched from a high area to a lower one and filled with gravel. These were described and popularized by Henry French in his book Farm Drainage. Today, specialized drain tiles are designed with perforations or holes to admit water. To prevent clogging gravel is placed around the perimeter of the drain tile to give water a path to the drain tile as well as filter soil particles. With the development of geo-textile fabrics, gravel can now be surrounded with this fabric greatly enhancing its ability to filter soil. A French drain can be covered over with sod after installation, making them less conspicuous.

Over time the term French drain has developed numerous definitions and has been applied to many different products. It has gotten to the point that any piping that is buried in the ground is now called a French drain.

As explained in his book, Farm Drainage, "a trench is cut in the cellar-bottom, two feet from the wall, a foot deep at the farthest corner from the outlet and deepening towards it, round the whole cellar, following the course of the walls. In this trench, two-inch pipe tiles are laid, and carefully covered with tan-bark, and the trenches filled with the earth. This tile drain [is] connected with the outlet drain 18 inches under ground, and the earth levelled over the whole.”French Drains were originally designed for basements or cellars. The idea behind it was to decrease moisture which in turn improved air quality in the home. These are the same issues we have today and the same methods to solve these issues are used and approved by building codes.

With every simple design comes copy-cats looking to make a buck. Today the market is full of extruded plastic versions like “drain tracs”, “water conduits”, “drain guards” and the like. Many are trying to make a simple process more difficult, so that they can charge more money. Well sometimes a design works so well that we should stick with it. That is why building codes and engineers prefer simple perforated pipe surrounded with clean gravel and covered with geo-textile fabric. The only difficult part is the layout and the labor.

There are plenty of cautions and concerns when installing a French Drain system. One needs to be careful of its placement around footings in basement waterproofing applications. Too low can cause undermining of the footing and too high will not remove water from beneath the slab. Proper slob is also a large concern. Many companies try to cut costs by placing drain systems on top of footings. Once you realize that the foundation contractor went to great lengths to keep his footing flat, you will understand that water cannot run down hill if there is no hill. Be very careful of this type of modern day “french drain”.

French drains are very effective and time proven. When installed correctly and applied to correct situations they can handle vast quantities of water for many years.

Wet Basements


While nothing is quite as frustrating as dealing with a wet basement. Water can damage walls and flooring and ruin irreplaceable things like photo albums and family heirlooms. If left uncontrolled foundation damage can occur. Knowing the causes of wet basements and how to prevent water damage can help prevent this frustration.

Where Wet Basements Come From
In order to prevent a wet basement, it is important to understand where the source of the water. There are four common sources of water that seeps into your basement:

Surface water running down foundation walls

Groundwater in water-saturated soils being pushed into the basement by hydrostatic pressure

Storm sewer water from the municipal storm sewer system backing up into the home's existing perimeter foundation drain and leaking into the basement (this can only occur if the perimeter foundation drain system is connected to the municipal sewer system)

Sanitary sewer water from a combined municipal storm/sanitary sewer system backing up into the home's drain system, causing sewer water to come up through sink drains and floor drains on lower levels.
When you experience a wet basement for the first time, it is imperative to determine if the water problems are going to reoccur or if it was a one-time event. Essential to solving this question is determining the source.

Controlling Surface Water
If this is your first time for basement water problems, the first thing to check for is surface water draining down next to the foundations. Water coming in at one location and only at the exterior foundation wall are typical indications of surface water problems. Here are some things to look for:

1.Are the gutters overflowing because they are blocked? Keeping gutters clean of debris should be a part of every homeowner's routine maintenance program.

2.  Are gutters overflowing because there are not enough downspouts on the house?

3.  Do the downspout outlets extend at least 10 feet from the home?

4.  Do the downspouts drain into the footing tile system? 

5.  Are there any paved areas next to the house that slope toward the house? 

6.  At paved areas that abut the house, is there sealant in the joint at the pavement and  house wall intersection, and if so, is it cracked?

7.  Is the ground around the home sloping away from the home at least 10 feet? 

8.  Are there any hills sloping down toward the house that may be the source of the water? 

9.  Is there a lawn/shrub irrigation system discharging too much water next to the house?
Controlling subsurface groundwater
If no surface water sources are found, then the source of the water is likely subsurface groundwater under hydrostatic pressure. Unfortunately, subsurface groundwater problems are more difficult and more expensive to fix than surface groundwater problems. When the groundwater levels outside the basement rises above the level of the floor, the basement acts like a boat in a pond. If a boat is sitting in water, water will leak in through any open cracks or holes. It works the same way with a basement. Hydrostatic pressure can push water through hairline cracks. Symptoms of this are water coming up through cracks in the basement concrete floor or water coming in at multiple locations.

If you have an older house within town and the house has a basement with no sump pump, it is likely the perimeter foundation drain system connects directly into the city storm sewer system. If the level of the basement is below the street level, there is the potential of storm water backing up in the city storm sewer system and being pushed into the perimeter foundation drain system. This can saturate the soils around the house at the basement level with storm water under hydrostatic pressure, causing water to leak in.

No matter where it is coming from, the best way to control subsurface groundwater is to install some type of perimeter drain and waterproofing system to relieve hydrostatic pressure. The groundwater is pushed into the drain system and not into areas where it can damage carpets, walls or belongings. The water drains by gravity into a sump pit where a sump pump discharges it out of the house.

There are two basic types of drain systems for wet basements. One is a perimeter above-slab gutter system installed at the base of the exterior foundation walls on top of the floor slab. It doubles as a base material for the wall. The other type of drainage system is a below slab interior drainage system. The below slab system requires the partial removal of the concrete floor slab and installation of drainage pipe making it more expensive than the base gutter system.

It is commonly known that an under-floor drainage system is better because the under-floor drains are believed to relieve the hydrostatic pressure before the water reaches the bottom of the floor slab.

Storm water backing up into your home
In many older houses with basements (mostly pre-1980), there is a perimeter foundation drain outside the exterior wall, at the level of the basement floor, next to the footings at the time the house was built. A pipe was usually installed from the perimeter foundation drain to the street where it was connected to the city storm sewer system or to a sump pump system.

If it is connected to the city storm sewer it can become a problem as the city storm sewer system becomes too small when more development causes more rain runoff. When this happens, the rainwater in the sewer system can get so high that water flows backwards toward the house. The perimeter foundation drain fills with water and releases large quantities into the soil next to the footing and basement floor. The soil becomes water-logged and the water which is under hydrostatic pressure leaks into the basement.

Usually the installation of an interior perimeter basement drain system connected to a sump pump will take care of the problem. The interior perimeter basement drain system can usually pump the water out and onto the ground as fast as the water is backing up from the city storm sewer system.

If that doesn't take care of it, the other, more expensive alternative would be to dig up and cap the pipe that is running from the house to the street from the perimeter foundation drain. However, this is not always possible because many times, this pipe is also draining sanitary waste from toilets and sinks in the house. If you believe you have this problem, contact an experienced contractor for advice.

Sanitary sewer water backing up into your home
If the water is coming up through floor drains or sink drains in the basement, then the problem is likely water backing up from the municipal sanitary sewer system. This usually occurs in older sections of some cities that have combined sanitary and storm sewer systems. During heavy rains, combined sewer systems can become overwhelmed with water. This can cause sewer water to back up in the system and sometimes into homes.

You can imagine the mess this creates for homeowners because it usually means they are getting other people's fecal waste backing up into their basement. To correct this, cities should update their sewer systems so the sanitary sewer and storm sewer are running in separate pipes. Until this work is complete, the homeowner can install backflow preventers that help stop sewer water from flowing backward into the house.

Unfortunately, because the city sanitary system works in conjunction with every house sanitary piping, the backflow preventer usually cannot be located on the house's main sewer line. It usually requires several backflow preventers at all basement drain locations, such at every floor drain, sink and toilet. These backflow preventers require routine maintenance to make sure they are kept free of debris

Proper Gutters and Yard Drainage

During a one-inch rain, 1,250 gallons of water fall on the roof of a 2,000-square-foot house. Without proper grading, gutters, and downspouts, some of this water flows into your basement. To waterproof your foundation you must first manage the source of the water. Rain and rain runoff is often the source of wet basements and foundation repairs. Collecting and controlling surface rain water also can save you money on watering landscape plantings and save you time when mowing or trimming your yard.

To prevent water from leaking through your basement, look to gutters as your first line of defense. While gutters with downspout systems protect your house from rainwater and snowmelt, they can also compound surface drainage problems by concentrating runoff near its foundation. This water must be moved at least 10’ away from the foundation to prevent wet basement or foundation repairs. Downspouts can be directed into a catch basin and or drain pipe system.

Water should be carried through a solid drainpipe to a drywell, daylight or to a pop up emitter. Years ago, drywells were old 55-gallon oil drums with holes punched in them. From the start, these were doomed to fail as they rusted and collapsed. Today's recycled plastic drywells are easy to handle and work efficiently on many drainage problems.

The same type of system should be used for sump pump outlets. A sump pump installation is never complete until the water is directed away from the foundation so that it will not have to be pumped out of your basement again. The sump pump discharge line should be drained to a 3” or 4” solid line, that is buried, and then either run to daylight or to a pop-up emitter. It is very important for this discharge line to empty to a larger pipe as soon as possible, so as to not create back pressure on the sump pump.

Making sure the ground closest to your foundation is graded away from the home is also very important. When regarding this area be sure to use a clayey soil instead of mulch or other loose material. Water wicks directly down through mulch opposed to running off away from your basement. Clear away sod and plantings, then gently build up the soil to slope away from the foundation. The 10 feet of ground closest to the house should slope at least six inches downward to keep water from seeping into the basement or flooding landscaping.

For problems with consistently wet areas, drywells and catch basins can also be used. Buried drywells give this collecting water a place to go and can even be used with a drain pipe system to move the water to dryer areas. While swales can also be used, often swales can be very unattractive or cause mowing issues.

Surface drainage is the single most important application of foundation waterproofing. Unless you have an underground spring or an unusually high water table, the surface drainage portion of your waterproofing system needs to control the greatest amount of water.

French Drains

A French drain, drain tile or perimeter drain is depression covered with gravel that redirects surface and ground water away from a wet area. A French drain usually has drain pipes along the bottom to quickly move water that seeps down through the upper layer of gravel or rock. French drains are common drainage systems, primarily used to prevent ground and surface water from penetrating or damaging building foundations. The French drain technique may be used to distribute water, such as that which flows from behind retaining walls to relieve ground water pressure.

Be Careful with Waterproofing

Do's and Don'ts of Waterproofing

As you look around you will find many different choices when it comes to waterproofing methods and waterproofing products. Buyers beware! You will see television ads with high priced spokesmen telling you that their method of waterproofing is the best. You will find articles and websites on the internet telling you why their methods are the best. You will hear radio advertising tell you that XYZ Waterproofing is the best because they have been around the longest or they are the cheapest. You will hear and read a lot of advertising, but with some basic information you can determine if what you are being told is correct.

              Not all waterproofing products are made equally
              Not all installers are trained equally
              There is not one single choice of waterproofing product for all
              situations
              There are a lot of local bad waterproofing contractors
              Structural damage cannot be fixed with waterproofing
              Water flows downhill

The hiring of a professional engineer is the single most important piece of advice. This engineer will evaluate your structure and give you a written analysis of the structure. Most foundation engineers can recommend a waterproofing expert that is well versed in multiple types of waterproofing products. Parts of your house may need an interior drain while other parts may need exterior grading while yet other places may need foundation repairs or a sump pump. Do not risk your home getting flooded by hiring an unqualified contractor using inferior products or systems.


  Do's
 
Hire an engineer
Interview foundation repair installers
Ask informed questions
Ask for references
Require a sealed interior drain system
Require a interior system installed beside the footing
 
 
  Don't
 
Try it yourself, you are not trained
Make your decision based on advertising
Be swayed by price alone
Allow open backed drainage systems to be used on your home
Allow interior drain system to be placed on top of footing
 
If your interior drain system is not sealed off from the living space moisture, humidity, mold, iron bacteria and mildew are free to circulate within your home creating poor indoor air quality. Sealed interior drainage systems that feed a sealed sump pump system prevent basement humidity. Open backed interior drains create an unhealthy environment for your family as well as increase energy costs. Many times companies that use these cheap open backed systems push you to buying a humidifier due to the fact that they know the moisture in their drain system will cause high humidity levels in your home. Sealed drain systems and sealed sump basins are designed to increase indoor air quality.

Causes of Water Damage

It does not matter if you have a poured concrete foundation, block crawl space or stone foundation, water is the number one enemy to any type of foundation. Water infiltration through basement walls, poor gutters, bad drainage and subsurface water all lead to leaky, wet basements and crawlspaces. By stopping this water infiltration you will be protecting your homes value and your families’ health.

Checklist to prevent water problems:
Properly Working Gutters
Downspout Extensions
Proper Grading
Free Flowing Exterior Drain System
Heavy Duty Sump Pump
Sealed Interior Drainage System
Wall Crack Repair
Stable Foundation

Without all of these things working together you are risking a flooded basement and potential structural problems. Water is the enemy, a smart water management system installed by a trained professional is your first line of defense. Your local waterproofing professional can help you determine the best solution for your basement water problem.

Why is it happening?

Poor Drainage
Properly working gutters, downspouts and grading direct water away from the foundation. .

Exterior Drain System
Plugged or improperly installed exterior drains cause excessive pressure on the foundation.

Plumbing Leaks
Water from leaky plumbing is often a major contributor to foundation problems especially in slab on grade construction.

Sump Pumps
Weak or improperly sized sump pumps cannot remove water from around and under your home.
 
Poor Building Site Preparation 
Cut and fill situations, where soil is removed from part of the lot and stacked on another, must be compacted properly before your home is constructed; otherwise unexpected movements of the soil beneath the foundation may occur.

Lack of Interior Drainage 
Water pressure from under your slab can cause cracks and water infiltration into living spaces. By installing a sealed interior drain system water is quickly diverted away from the foundation.

Wall Cracks 
Wall cracks and ruptures create a path for water to enter your home causing high humidity and possibly mold and mildew problems.

Foundation
Fluctuating soil moisture levels, beneath the foundation, is the number one cause of foundation repairs. Maintaining a consistent moisture level allows for a stable foundation.

Exterior Waterproofing

When your basement was built the foundation contractor installed a perimeter drain system and waterproofed the walls, correct? Well, maybe. Way too often home builders will only use damp proofing methods instead of waterproofing methods. This spray on material looks like true waterproofing emulsion, but is watered down and not nearly as thick. The next thing that many home builders do poorly is their installation of the perimeter drain. Way too often they will use corrugated pipe as a perimeter drain because the excavation is not graded for proper drainage.

This corrugated pipe runs up and down the peaks and valleys along the bottom of the excavation and then cover this piping with extra plumber rock. Plumbers rock is too small and there generally is not enough to properly cover the drainage system. Finally it is time to backfill. As everyone knows, that have been is to a new construction site, there is trash, building waste and un-compacted soil used for backfill. All of these things contribute to an exterior waterproofing system that does not last for more than about 7-10 years.

Proper Exterior Waterproofing 

The number one thing needed to properly waterproofing the exterior of a structure is – care. Yes, you must care. You must use proper materials, take your time and have pride in the workmanship. Without these things your home will not be waterproofed correctly.

Moisture is transferred from the outside of the building to the basement interior by four primary mechanisms. First, water flow. Water takes the path of least resistance, if this is into your basement, then that is where the water will flow. Second, capillary action. Concrete is a porous material, it is very hard yet porous. Think of capillary action being like a wick. As concrete sets in water, this water is absorbed by the concrete until it becomes complete saturated and then disperses moisture and water vapor to the inside of the home.

Next is vapor diffusion. Vapor diffusion is much like capillary suction, except with water vapor. Water vapor only needs the smallest of openings to penetrate a structure and raise humidity levels. Lastly, air movement. Any time that a door or window is opened not only are you bringing air in to the home but you are pulling air from the basement to the upper living levels. This is known as stack effect. Your home acts like a chimney drawing air from the bottom toward the top. 40% of the air we breathe in our homes comes from the basement.

What should you do?

If exterior water is making its way into your basement or crawlspace you are in the need of proper exterior waterproofing. To properly waterproof your home it will need to be excavated. The footing will need to be exposed and all exterior issues will need to be dealt with.

Foundation walls will need to be cleaned and then a spray or roll on polymer waterproofing product will need to be applied. Once dry, this coating will need to be covered with a dimple board product that protects your newly sealed surface and also allows better water flow downward. The next step is to install a drain pipe system that is properly sloped for continuous drainage. This slope can be to a sump pit or to daylight, depending on the site layout. The drain pipe is then covered with a ¾” clean rock. This rock backfill can be from 1’ up to 60% of the wall height, depending on the soil conditions. On top of the rock a non-woven geo-textile material is wrapped to help filter soil without clogging. After the geo-textile material installation soil backfill can begin. This soil needs to be native clayey soils that resist water intrusion. Backfilling with loose soils creates a highway for the water opposed to clay soils that force water away.

Proper exterior waterproofing is no small chore and should not be attempted by unqualified people. You are protecting your home and the job should be done correctly and provide a permanent solution to your home. Remember though, exterior wall waterproofing cannot prevent water from moving deeply below your foundation walls. This water can move through your basement or crawlspace floor. In these cases an interior drainage system will complement your exterior efforts, not replace them.  An interior drainage system is not waterproofing. Interior drain systems are water management agents that relieve excess water from around and under your foundation.

Also, keep in mind that if your are moving the exterior water to a sump pump system, this system must be up to the task. Modern sump pumps, battery backup sump pumps and high quality sump basins are available to remove this collected water away from your home.

Foundation drain tile systems are the means by which groundwater can be transported away from your basements foundation and floor. If you want a dry basement and a sound foundation, you must have an adequate foundation drainage system.

Interior Drainage Systems

Moisture problems in existing basements are very common, but often are not understood or properly treated. In a basement that is seldom used and separate from the living spaces above, this may not present a great problem. However, most basements are connected to the rest of the house. In addition, basements are increasingly used as finished living and bedroom spaces. In these cases, moisture problems are not only annoying and uncomfortable, but can lead to significant health problems. Molds and mildew can grow in damp carpets and beneath wall coverings. Finishing a basement without first dealing with the moisture problems can result in making health conditions worse and lead to significant damage as well.

Why Interior Drainage Systems?

Interior drain tile systems are one of the most important aspects of residential waterproofing and moisture control. Drain tile systems are also one of the most misunderstood aspects. Because these systems are buried and cannot be easily modified or corrected, it is very important that they are installed correctly.

In many cases the process of installing an interior drainage system is less expensive and less evasive then exterior waterproofing. A perimeter drainage system will still prevent unsightly water on a basement floor and flooding, but may not eliminate seepage if there are cracks in the foundation walls. Cracking basement walls will need to be injected with epoxy or polyurethane. If cracking is significant, an exterior waterproofing system should be installed.

An interior drainage system is not waterproofing. Interior drain systems are water management agents that relieve excess water from around and under your foundation.


Interior Drainage Systems - Below the Slab

The most effective of the interior drainage systems is a perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing. Not only are these the most popular systems, they are also building code approved when installed correctly. This requires removing and replacing concrete around the slab edge. By placing the drain pipe beneath the slab, it drains the area to a lower level. Similar to an exterior system, this drainage pipe connects to a sump pump system. The sump basin should have an airtight, childproof cover. A critical component of this approach is the dimpled plastic sheeting placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. Dimpled sheeting is similar to a small egg crate and permits free drainage at the base of the wall into the drain pipe. It is less expensive than many specialized drainage channel systems. This system will remove rising groundwater if there is an aggregate layer under the slab.

It is recommended that this approach be combined with an active soil gas management system that connects with a sealed sump basin and perimeter drain pipe. This type of system will actively remove soil gases, such as radon and remove them from the living space. You should always consult with a radon specialists before any radon remediation is attempted.

Foundation drain tile systems are the means by which groundwater can be transported away from your basements foundation and floor. If you want a dry basement and a sound foundation, you must have an adequate foundation drainage system. Interior drainage systems work extremely well for many homeowners. Depending on your circumstances, this can be an effective solution.

Interior Drainage Channel - On Top Footings

The simplest and least costly approach to interior drainage is a drain channel adhered at the base of the wall, on top of the footing. Water is collected and drained into a sump basin. The sump pit should have an airtight, childproof cover. These types of systems do not solve the problem in masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab. With this approach, the water is not completely removed from the space. The result is that humidity, mold, and mildew can still be a problem. This system also cannot drain groundwater from under the floor slab.

Waterproofing and Drainage Solutions

Homeowners around the S. Wisc. and N.IL. area rely on Waterpro for complete and accurate solutions about basement waterproofing and drainage. We serve as a resource of solutions to remedy water problems in basements and crawl spaces, no matter the cause. We are also referred to as a top qualified waterproofing contractor that will provide you with a free in home estimate in your area. To receive a free estimate contact us now! Our waterproofing employees have been trained to provide you with the very best workmanship using the highest quality products in the industry.
For more information on our basement and crawl space waterproofing and drainage solutions, please choose to contact us . Thank you for visiting our Blog, you are now on the way to a dry, mildew free and healthier home.


For many of us, our home is the largest, most important investment we will make. Basement water leaks can threaten that investment by causing serious structural damage that reduces a home's value and threatens the health of your family. This hydrostatic pressure can cause bowing walls and flooded basements.

Whether you have a crawl space, basement or slab on grade, water problems are the top items that threaten your homes structure. Excessive moisture under or beside your foundation can cause flooding and mold growth. A wet crawl space can now become additional storage without mold and mildew. Leaking wet basements and crawl spaces create poor indoor air quality and bad smells throughout your home.

If your home is in the need of waterproofing or water management, you have come to the right place. The first step is to contact us. Our Team of basement experts will come to your home and inspect your basement or crawl space to determine the cause of your problem. They will answer your questions and teach you about the solutions that will best fix your water problem. Our Waterpro expert will give you a written proposal that details what can be done and the cost of the work. After you approve the proposal, he will make the needed repairs quickly and permanently.